Panama

687 miles, 12 days.

Bastimentos - Bocas del Toro

With our ready made and entirely phoney flight ticket as proof of onward travel, we breezed through immigration into Panama. Our first destination was an island off the Caribbean coast called Bastimentos.

The boat ride was pleasant, passing villages on stilts on the water's edge, and took us to a peaceful and retro island. We were instantly struck by the simplicity of not just the tiny town, but the way of life. We still have no idea what the common occupations of the citizens were....we never saw anyone doing anything other than play dominoes between houses, play football, eat a lot or simply sit chatting with neighbours. Children ran in and out of each others houses and their were no roads, only a pavement along the waters edge. Added to this was a heavy caribbean feel and, with it, a language we failed to understand.

Cruising out to Bocas del Toro.

Typical houses.

Every building with a nice jetty or toilet over the water.

We found a great little cabana to stay in which had a beautiful garden setting filled with fruit trees and the rare poisonous red tree frog too. Surrounding us were lovely views of the harbour, a short walk from the beach.

Noisy little things.

Quiet coastline.

We took a longer walk to the other side of the island to Wizzard beach. It was a longer trail than we initially anticipated, taking us through slippery slopes, passing countless abandoned flip flops stuck in the mud. Sufficiently covered in mud, ants and sweat, we found a stunningly blue sea on a sandy stretch as we stepped out of the dense jungle. Both times we shared the beach with a mere handful of people. It was definitely a gem to have found on the island. Our lunch was free too, having picked off mangos, oranges and guavas from trees passed on the way.

Wizard beach.

Boquete

From salt water to fresh water, we boated and bussed to the highland town of Boquete.  The river setting in the mountains , abundant with flowers bursting colours to brighten gardens was beautiful. Around the town were numerous opportunities to take tours to volcanoes, waterfalls etc. However we were satisfied simply strolling the area. The only downside to become apparent to us was the huge recent influx of american retirees inhabiting the town. It was sad to see such a beautifully distant settlement being overtaken by foreigners, building american style homes and driving oversized vehicles.

Passing through town.

The wildlife amongst the shrubbery was particularly impressive. On our walks we encountered several strange little animals and vibrant swooping birds overhead. Hummigbirds were often fluttering around where we sat to rest.

In the hostel garden.

Mini wriggling pine tree.

Many well kept gardens around.

With Christmas nearing, various local talent was gracing the plaza stage for entertainment. We managed to catch some of the traditional dancing in their intricate indigenous clothing. The live band accompaniment was also impressive, playing music specific to Panama.

Colourful moves.

Panama City

Unlike other central american cities,  we were instantly taken aback by the modern style of both the architecture and culture of Panama City. The latin american vibe had been drained by the oppressive western society, with huge air conditioned malls and horrendous traffic. Having said that, the place offered a fun couple of days picking up some bargains to replace tired items of clothing etc. The skyline was impressive and we enjoyed strolling around parts of the bustling city. For some journeys it was necessary to taxi across, leaving us fidgeting, queuing in traffic jams for a while.

Growing wealth.

We did spend some time in an unnecessarily refridgerated mall which successfully caught us out in shorts and tshirt. The trip, though numb by the end of it, enabled us to find a perfect engagement ring :)

Some old buses still running despite many new city metro buses.

Practical Information

As of December 2013.
£1 = $1.60.

Border crossing from Costa Rica details are in Costa Rica tab.

A bus from David to Panama City takes 8 hours and costs $16.

Bastimentos is a 10 minute boat ride yet world away from Isla Colons busy party atmosphere.

Crossing to Colombia border formalities are organised by your boat captain. It is extremely difficult to cross by land over the darien gap. You could independantly catch launchas down the coast to Puerto Obaldia, but it would be foolish to miss the San Blas islands.

A double room average cost - $25.

Complete budget example - £15 and up, per person, per day.