Mexico

691 miles 33 days.

Cancun

We stayed in Cancun with an excellent couchsurf host who offered us a chance to settle into the ways of Mexico. It is sad to admit, but post "no fresh food Cuba," we were genuinely intrigued by the supermarket across the road. Walmart enticed us in, and we lost ourselves simply dawdling between aisles, admiring everything this wonder of a place had to offer. The proper dinners we cooked from this beautiful supermarket were particularly savoured.

The beaches of Cancun were, again, set to impress. With reflective, crystal clear waters and postcard worthy sands, we blissfully relaxed until we were sufficiently sun sizzled. The buses to the beach areas were convenient and wallet friendly, frequently stopping along the coast so you can choose where to kick off your flip flops for the day. Cancun, if a little too touristy, is not an area to capture the raw culture of Mexico at all.  However, we enjoyed our opening days of Mexico, relishing the time to relax, soak up the sun, be welcomed by consistently friendly faces and reflect on surviving the flight here from Havana. Additionally, after conversing with numerous locals, we began to realise the magnificent amount that they truly loved their own country. Limitless suggestions of places we "simply must visit" were thrown at us in bundles, making us ever more fidgety to travel the vast country.

Cancun beach.

Isla Holbox

We took a bus north to Chiquila, then a ferry across to Isla Holbox. It is a small island where the only vehicles are golf buggies on the sandy streets. Our hostel (Tribu) alluringly resembled a tree house, equipped with lazy hammocks and a few paces from the beach. This was an ideal stop to socialise and in our case, be brutally robbed from winning the pub quiz. The island itself was charmingly peaceful, with untouched coastline, allowing lovely walks along through mangroves and wildlife.

Being August, we witnessed Whaleshark season. They congregate in their masses to feast on the plankton drawn together by two currents that meet here. Despite us being initially sceptical of the cost of the lengthy, choppy boat ride, it turned out to be one of the most treasured experiences. After two hours of a merciless and blind journey out with frowning, doubting faces and dubious radio messages to confirm our location, we spotted the Whalesharks. The enormous creatures, the length of a bus, manoeuvred around us with unbelievable agility, making us feel minute. They barely acknowledged our presence, although it still startled us a little when they squared up to us, gaping mouthed, threatening to suck us in, before absent mindedly passing by. We know there is always a tendency to exaggerate, but truthfully, there were at least a hundred whalesharks in this one spot. Each one was being groomed by surprisingly large cleaner fish. Snorkeling with them, alongside manta rays looping below us was literally indescribable and will not be forgotten.

Dozens of whalesharks all around, sadly no size comparison.

On the way back, we detoured into the mangroves to a solitary sand bank, enclosed by crystal waters, flamingoes and pelicans. Lunch was a tasty treat of freshly made fish ceviche served on the waters edge. 

Graceful flamingos. 

A blissful spot for a fish ceviche lunch.

A night swim on the island also gave us a surreal sensation of glow in the darks limbs. Here, the plankton fluoresce in response to movement and so we splashed around, making the water around us glow green.

Valladolid

We got the bus, changing at El Ideal, to the less touristy town of Vallodolid. The journey included a long conversation with a lady who, for over an hour, persistently insisted on us visiting her home back in isla mujeres and meeting her family. 

Hostal Candeleria was a great place to relax and enjoy a garden scene with a tasty inclusive breakfast each morning. The town was very pleasant, with local style comida corrida lunches in old style buildings. We came across free and informative tequila and chocolate tours which provided some generous tasters. 

Five kilometres out of town we found the stunning San Lorenzo Oxman cenote. For a 65m deep hole in the ground, it is truly magnificent. We swam in the fresh water and refreshed ourselves whilst basking with the catfish in the sunshine channeled from above. The 8m swing drop was a fun plummet into the chilly water below.

San lorenzo oxman cenote to ourselves.

Tulum

For the second time in our trip, we stayed with a couchsurf host in the centre of town. He generously lent us a bike each, enabling us to venture out to the advised best beach spots. After the 45 minute ride, we found shade and soaked up the paradise of this idyllic coastline.  The sea was vibrantly blue with big waves, and the sands stretched as far as the eye could see. The old mayan ruins were also situated in front of the beach on a cliff top. However, when arriving at the ruins entrance we immediately lost interest in response to the outrageous number of tourists piling in from other towns. A dinner out with our couchsurf friends to El Camello in the south side of town was perhaps the best of our trip, sharing a mountain of prawn ceviche.

Tulum, in particular, offered something very unique. The cenote network linked deep underground allowed endless opportunities to scuba dive. We treated ourselves to two dives, the first in Gran cenote. This boasted 100m visibility whilst weaving through stalactites. The beams of sunlight glowed blue from above and between the cavernous passages, although torches were required for some areas. It was an entirely new and unique diving experience. 

The second dive site was Calavera cenote, which, after a jump down into the entrance, showcased the halocline effect where fresh and salt water are divided metres down. There is also a notable temperature difference between the two. When gliding through the divide itself it can only be described as viewing the world through vaseline. When surfacing from salt to fresh water above, it looks as though you are entering the open air, giving the sensation of flying...very slowly.

Off diving down into Calavera cenote in the jungle.

Tulum beach, shaded in a tree den.

Mexico offered an abundance of experiences, more than we ever anticipated. Despite leaving for Belize, we had every intention of returning at some point in our trip.

Palenque

After reading the guide book's description of the town of Palenque, we did not anticipate much. However, we were more than pleasantly surprised and actually found the place had a lot to offer. Yaxkin hostal was a great place to stay, walking distance to the main town. There were some tasty local eats, one of which served us a moreish meal of chicken fajitas.

After seeing the Tikal ruins, we didn't know what to expect from Palenque. Unlike Tikal, it is not situated in the middle of the jungle, however still distant from the modern world. The rugged characterists of Tikal were also contrasted here with the buildings in close proximity, neatly kept lawns and public walkways. Despite it's differences it was equally as interesting to visit. The buildings were excellently excavated and provided much detail into the Mayan history and beliefs. 

A view, from one of many temples, of the site.

Another day out was to drive up the winding roads bordering cliff edges to the waterfalls Misol Ha and Agua Azul.  Being rainy season, the volume of water gushing over the edge of Misol Ha and crashing beneath us was particularly impressive. We were drenched standing 20m from it. Agua Azul covered a larger area, allowing us to walk up and find spots to take a rather cold dip.

Agua Azul Cascada.

San Cristobal de las Casas

We continued 2200m above sea level into the cooler, mountainous highlands of Mexico...where we swiftly invested in socks, jumpers and a decent pair of shoes. The city of San Cristobal de las Casas was, again, unique to anywhere else in Mexico. The area still maintained traditions, reflected in their intricately patterned clothing, religion and dialects. We did not intend to stay longer than a week, but we took a real liking to the place...and ended up staying 3 weeks.

Alongside concentrating on improving our spanish, we were enticed by the new foods to try; empanadas, caldos, quesedillas, salcronizados, tamales, gringas, tlayudas and piratas to name a delicious few! Much of these were tried at plastic chair cafes or during one of the extensive mexican fiestas that occurred during our stay. They really do love a party.

We also took a trip out to two local villages; Zinacantan and San Juan Chamula. The first allowed us to meet a family who led us up through blessed land to the top of a hill to tower over the region. The view was beautiful and provided enough height to see over the mountains to surrounding villages. We climbed back down the steep landscape (the locals made this walk look like a breeze, collecting firewood on the way,) to then have lunch in the family home. The ladies also demonstrated cotton weaving, a method used to create vibrant traditional clothing.

San Juan Chamula provided a perfect insight into the traditions of religion in these highland towns. Being a Sunday, the church was filled with locals coming to pray, bringing with them different coloured candles to burn. Each colour represented an individual subject to pray for, such as health, wealth or general happiness. Gifts to God ranged from bottles of fizzy drinks to sacrifices of chickens. The church was intricately covered in flowers, shrines, burning candles and artwork with the floor scattered with pine needles.

We also witnessed a blessing/cleansing/not entirely sure which involved a bizarre performance of waving eggs around the person being blessed. They were also subjected to being battered with small branches, continuous chanting and splattered with holy water bought straight from the shop around the corner.

The view of Zinacantan. 

Impressive textile work, taking months to make.

Cotton weaving demonstration.

The family who welcomed us into their home.

Walking up the holy hill.

We stayed longer than planned due to agreeing to help out a hostel/homestay called Hostal Dakota run by a lovely family. San Cristobal had so much to offer and so when not doing jobs or learning Spanish, we spent our time wondering the never ending markets.

Live chickens for sale.

Some of the tastier items on offer at markets...and the not so tasty...

All Mexicans seemed to enjoy a limitless number of fireworks no matter what time of the day or night. This was accompanied by trumpets, tacos and dancing on any occassion that could give reason for celebration. Below are some highlights of the festival of the church opposite our place...over the course of a week. Yes, a man is indeed running around with an exploding bull on his back.

Our dancing partners. 

And we shall finish off with a catchy tune, typical of mexico...

Practical information

Accurate from our experiences in August and September 2013. 

£1 = 20 pesos.

Buses from Cancun airport to downtown are frequent and 56 pesos.

ADO and OCC are the main bus companies that are always frequent, very comfortable and do not require advanced booking. However always ask for a 2nd class option or check out the collectivos that occasionally offer a better deal.

The hourly ferry from Chiquila to Isla Holbox is 80 pesos for a single journey.

A snorkelling with whalesharks outing costs 1000 pesos.

Cenote diving ranges from $90 - 120 for 2 dives, depending on the cenotes chosen.

The crossing to Belize is straightforward. When arriving in Chetumal, ask for nuevo mercado, less than 10 minutes walk from the main bus station, where there will be old school buses that leave for Belize and wait for you to get stamped at the border. $5BZ to Orange walk.

There is a departure tax on land borders of 295 pesos. This is waived if the visit is under 7 days.

 Most hostels provide a kitchen and supermarket food along with market fruit + veg is very cheap. Chedraui sells everything.

Hostels are generally around $10 per person, per night.

Budget example - £12 and up, per person, per day. Buses are pricey for central america. But this budget will be nearly doubled by diving and whaleshark outings.

Chiapas region

Deatils on the border crossing from Flores can been seen in the 'Guatemala North' tab.

A 6 hour and 100 peso journey links Palenque and San Cristobal.

Prices are cheaper than other areas in Mexico.

Collectivos constantly run to Palenque ruins and back. Entry is 27 pesos to the area and 57 pesos for a ticket.

Misol Ha has 13.5 peso entry and Agua Azul charges 24.5 pesos.

Hostal Erni's or Hostal Dakota are the best places to stay in San Cristobal.

There is a 295 peso departure tax for land crossings out of Mexico. However this is waived if the stay is under 7 days.

The border crossing to Guatemala is easy and will save money compared to the shuttles, as well as being far more interesting. With 100 pesos and 3.5 hours you can reach Ciudad Chautemac on the border. Get your stamps over the road then take a 10 peso collectivo to the border. Stroll accross and get your Guatemalan stamps then it is 1km walk straight up to the bus stop. Get a frequent chicken bus to your destination. 20Q to Huehuetenango and you can jump off at  junction when they say, change buses and pay 20Q more to Quetzaltenango.

Complete budget example - £10 per person, per day. Cheaper than the coast of mexico.