Guatemala

813 miles, 47 days.

Flores

We arrived in Guatemala via a fairly direct bus, which we later found out to be a rarity. Flores, in the El Peten district, is a small island branching into the serene lake Peten Itza. The cobbled streets and colourful, florally decorated houses added to the beauty of this little area surrounded by calm waters. We were lucky enough to be spoilt with a budget room giving the most exquisite view of the lake to wake up to. This, accompanied by tasty taco style and bbq chicken dinners resulted in a great few days on the island. We also took more time to concentrate on improving our Spanish whilst relaxing on the edge of the lake.

A few paces from our room...the view of the lake.

There was too much choice for dinner!

The cute little streets on the tiny island.

Tikal

An early start at 4.30am got us going on the 1.5 hour drive to what was once the capital of the Mayan world, Tikal. Our early arrival provided less heat, fewer tourists and an abundance of wildlife. Howler monkeys were swinging from the jungle canopy, whilst turkeys, raccoons and incredible butterflies scattered the paths below. We decided against a guided tour to explore for ourselves. The jungle paths wind and intertwine, leading to various pyramids, temples and sacred buildings built around 200BC. Climbing to the top of Templo IV allowed an incredible view of the endless jungle enclosing this solitary settlement. 

View from Templo IV.

Some size perspective. Some were up to 70m high!

The main plaza.

Quetzaltenango - Xela

 Welcome to Guatemala, where on our chicken buses there is ALWAYS room for one more. Whether you are carrying multiple children, foliage, machinery, commercial goods, a bag of live chickens or all of the above...hop on! There are moments where you just about have enough room to breathe and on numerous bends you fear that the inevitable has happened...your backpack has tumbled off of the roof of the bus. However, in exchange you experience an entertaining ride through exquisite volcanoes to your destination. We arrived safe and sound, thrown into the hustle and bustle of the bus station market area.

Chicken buses...old, bumpy, noisy but quick and cheap!

We found a sweet little hostel with an incredible view of Xela from the balcony terrace. It was a perfect place to stay whilst we gathered plans to volunteer and find long term accommodation. After the tiring journey we decided to treat ourselves to an indian meal out. Despite having both traveled India, never, ever, have we appreciated a curry so much.

The view of Xela from our balcony at Nim sut hostel. 

Xela is a traditional town situated in a vast valley, engulfed by mountains and volcanoes.  We found a perfect place to live, costing £36 each, for a month. We were situated in the centre of town, close to the frequent action of the central plaza. Like, Mexico, they love a good fiesta. We got ourselves bikes for the month to get us to the other edge of zona 1 where we volunteered. The organisation was called El nahual and offered an after school club "Manos de Colores" for primary ages. Here we played games, made Art and taught English lessons to some lovely, energetic children aged 5 and up. We also tried to incorpate new and interesting topics such as Geography that they don't normally get the opportunity to learn. As well as this, we were further linked up with a local school to teach more English/Health classes to teenage children.

Zara, excited for her 1st day at school.

One of our art classes.

We taught to classes of around 30 children, all of which tested our Spanish vocabulary. English was appreciated amongst the students, however it is not seen as a necessity, resulting in their level of english being very basic. We came across a few words when teaching that triggered a fair few sniggers. We soon found out that, for example, cheese is very similar to the spanish word for boobs. We therefore added some words to our vocab list too! Over a month we were proud to notice improvements and enthusiasm accross our 6 different classes.

One of our classes at telesecundario pacaja.

On a weekend we got a chicken bus down the valley to a town called Zunil. Here we got a pick up to Fuentes Georginas, driving uphill towards the mountains, through clouds and passing almost vertical farmland. The hot springs that greeted us at the top were like luxurious baths, each at different temperatures. This was whilst the air temperature remained very chilly. One bath was so scoldingly hot most people only lasted a minute or two of submersion before jumping out red as a lobster. The 8km walk down through the farmland was particularly pretty, displaying the local habitants at work. With volcanic land being so fertile, the land produces vegetables sent all over central america.

Santa Maria volcano, whilst winding up to Fuentes Georginas.

Fuentes Georginas hot springs.

Whilst in Xela, we encountered numerous celebrations and festivals and all of which were accompanied by an abundance of food, xylophones, dancing and more food. Traditional dress was always colourfully sported, adding to the occassion.

Traditional dress of the Guatemalan highlands.

A religious celebration for Virgen del Rosario.

The patterns on the skirts represent the geographical ancestry of each family.

Got another packed chicken bus out of town, on which a man with gold teeth was particularly taken by Duncan's leg hair...and frequently tiddled it between his fingers laughing. The town  called Sanfrancisco el alto was essentially one humongous market, with barely enough room to pass other bargain hunters, let alone conveniently stop to purchase anything. Again, we were impressed but slightly fatigued by the ridiculous range of items for sale. 

Livestock at the market.

Items for sale.

Colourful chicks.

Seeing as we get the view of Santa Maria volcano everyday...we had the urge to climb it! We left at 5am and enjoyed the beautiful views all the way, before having lunch at the top of the active volcano at 3772m above sea level. Santaguito is a vent to Santa Maria, and so erupts regularly each day and can also be seen from the top on a clear day. It was a rather long day of hiking...4 hours up the steep gradient to then climb 4 hours back down. Our legs did ache a little that evening, but it was more than worthwhile.

View of Santa Maria on the way to work.

View down the valley.

Overlooking Xela through fast moving clouds.

On top of the world. The view behind as far as the pacific.

Other worthwhile days out we enjoyed around Xela include the colourful cemetary with volcano backdrop and the huge minerva local market.

Lago Atitlan

As the crow flies, we travelled a mere 40km south. However, along the winding roads of Guatemala it took 4 hours to reach Lago Atitlan, a stunning mass of water enclosed by 3 volcanoes. Intially, we spent 2 nights in the village of San Pedro, to then boat across to the quieter area of San Marcos. Here we enjoyed the serenity of the lake, excellent views, with the addition of tasty dinners. 

The view from San Pedro. 

View of the volcanoes from San Marcos.

Antigua

Our next stop was the colonial town of Antigua. The hostel "A Place To Stay," was perfect and we thoroughly enjoyed strolling around town. Incidentally, the town boasts the most incredibly beautiful mcdonalds. We are not at all fans of the chain restaurant, however couldn't resist a quiet sit down in the gardens! We found a great view point, easily accessible, that provides a view over Antigua and the volcanoes.

View from Cerro de la Cruz.

Semuc Champey

The picturesque grounds around our little lodge.

The journey to Lanquin was by no means easy, along bumpy tracks through forests and valleys. This area is located far inland, in a jungle environment, the town being small and simple. We found a little cabana, surrounded by flowers, butterflies, complete with a hammock and steps from the river. From here we hopped onto a trailer to get to Semuc Champey for the day. It is a nicely isolated river where the pools glow bright blue due to mineral contribution flowing from the mountains above. The majority of the river flows underground, providing a peaceful swim in the pools and small cascades above.

A day enjoying the jungle area around Semuc Champey.

Livingston

Our final stop before heading for Honduras was a great little town, only accessible by a beautiful boat ride. Cruising down the Rio Dulce we were hiding under a tarp from the pelting rain, then gazing at the canyons and simple life along the banks. Livingston offered a vast contrast to the rest of the country. Situated on the Caribbean coast, the natives sport dreadlocks, play reggae tunes and walk slowwwww. It had a definite vibe similar to that in Belize, however their first language was still Spanish. Whilst here we indulged in the traditional dish of the Garifuna heritage here; soup of coconut, banana, crab and shrimp, accompanied by a whole fish and rice. Seriously delicious!

Tapado, the tastiest dish in Livingston.

Pelicans at the harbour.

Practical information

Accurate from our experience in September and October 2013.
£1 = 12.5 quetzales

Transport from Flores to Tikal should cost approx 60Q for a return trip each. Entry to Tikal cost 150Q each. 

A 5am bus leaves Santa Elena heading to La Tecnica on the Mexican border. This includes a stop at Bethel for a stamp at immigration (there should be no cost). The bumpy journey takes 4/5 hours, where you then hop on a 20Q (each) boat taxi to cross the river to Frontera Corozal, Mexico in a few minutes. Walk up the to immigration, get stamped and ask for directions to catch a collectivo (around 15 min walk). To Palenque the 3 hour trip cost 100 pesos each.

Information on border crossing from Mexico (San Cristobal) can be found under the Mexico Chiapas tab.

Chicken buses for Zunil stop at calle 10a, avenida 8 below central park (on the corner by the petrol station). They cost 4.75Q and take around 30 minutes, stopping in Zunil.

A pick up taxi costs around 50Q for a truckload up to Fuentes Georginas, from Zunil outside the church.

Entrance fees to Fuentes Georginas are 50Q each.

Monthly accommodation can be found in Xela for less than 1000Q for a double room including kitchen and bills etc.

Bikes can be rented for a month from Vrisa bookshop at 200Q each, including locks, repairs and maps. (The indian is next door to here).

Moza gold is the best beer!

A long term stay daily budget can be around £5 per day, per person.

To get a bus to Sanfrancisco el alto, catch a bus from the station or from Rotunda in zone 2, costing 10Q each way for the 1 hr journey.

The trek up Santa Maria was done with Quetzaltrekkers, where all the profits go to help a local street school. Highly recommended, with great food.

All you can eat curry nights are on Thursday in San Pedro - Fe restaurant.

Entrance to Semuc Champey is 50Q and local transport or hitching with a tour can be taken for 20Q each way.

Accommodation is very affordable everywhere, costing from £5+ for 2 in a private room.

Livingston to Utila. From Livingston an early 35Q each boat can be taken to Puerto Barrios. From here hail a collectivo heading to 'frontera', just over an hour and costing around 25Q each. There is a $3 entrance tax into Honduras and there are no ATMs on the border, only money changers giving poor rates. Wait at the bridge for a bus in the direction of San Pedro Sula. This takes a few hours and may require a change on route, 100L each should be enough.  From San Pedro Sula a comfortable bus is 4 hours and 115L to La Ceiba. If this all goes smoothly you can make the 4PM ferry to Utila, we were only half an hour late.

Guatemala is the most affordable country in central america. A complete budget example could be £10 each per day, easily.