Cuba

Our first destination was straight into the rich variety of colour, music and vibrant life that is Cuba. The controversial political insight also triggered much interest throughout. The fact that almost all cars are models no newer than that of 1959 is one of many examples as to why Cuba was simply unique to the rest of the world. We spent a month here travelling south to north and absolutely loved it.

858 miles, 25 days

Santiago de Cuba

We flew into santiago on a unmistakeably dodgy, weary russian plane. Here we witnessed baggage allowance to a new and exceptional level. Countless cubans were desperately cramming on tons of imported goods, to the point where some were piling numerous articles of clothing onto themselves after exceeding the already obscene limit. This left us further doubting the ability of this fine specimen of an aircraft to take flight.

However, we safely landed and had our first experience in a Casa Particular. These are homestay style accommodations and a great way to incorporate cuban culture into your trip. We instantly loved the classic cars and retro technology on display,  integrated into this old and somewhat battered looking city. Around every corner the streets offered an array of old man bands, lively plazas and dancing.

Typical cafe on a normal afternoon.

We were fortunate enough to time our visit with the festival of cuban independence, which turned out to be an embellished event on a large scale. Streets all over town were closed off for the outrageously entertaining affair that paraded through until the early hours. Adults and children were both excited and mesmorised by the energetic dancing and booming music. You can take our word for it...you would not see anything like this elsewhere. There was more than enough booty shaking of all shapes and sizes!

Bootys came in all shapes and sizes!

It was a family outing... honestly.

With cuba offering two different currencies we had to figure out which one to use for what purpose. (CUCs for usual business, national money pesos for local street food and buses etc.) We also found it a task to find fresh or varied food unless eating in your casa. However, never underestimate the amount of pizza to be sold here, for only 20 pence. A bargain, but there is only so much pizza one can handle...including Duncan. 

The streets always promised colour.

Trinidad

After a 10 hour journey we reached the charming colonial town of Trinidad. Filled with cobbled streets, horse carriages and live music. The houses were extremely colourful and individually so, creating a quaint and rustic character to the area. The food on offer ranged from indulging in lobster tails, devilled prawns in rum and paprika sauce, to street food spreads of pizza, ommelettes and mangos for a dollar between us. All meals were accompanied by a typical live band. The town offered time to relax and also venture out to the nearby beach playa Ancon, 12km away. This was accessible cheaply on the hotel workers bus.

Quaint houses and cobbled streets of Trinidad.

Playa Ancon.

A long stretch to get sand between your toes.

It is safe to say that playa Ancon was stunning and peacefully serene. At this time of year (august) we were two of a handful of tourists/locals to be seen. By this point in our trip we had now come across numerous opportunities to speak with locals and discover their true opinions on Cuban communism.  

Cienfuegos

The bus company Viazul enabled us to arrive comfortably and quickly in Cienfuegos.  Do make an effort to book all journeys in advance and at the bus station itself. Remember internet and general rules of organisation do not exactly exist in Cuba! This traditionally french town in located on a bay, and we stayed just outside in Punta Gorda. This peaceful spot is a short bus ride from the main plazas with grand architecture. We also invested in a hand made truly Cuban cigar. 

Central plaza of Cienfuegos.

Thousands of varieties, shapes and sizes were available.

Varadero

Here we encountered a little of the tourist scene in Cuba, with its sandy beach stretching no less than 22km out into the azure blue Caribbean sea. All perfect beach that got quieter the further along you go. We had a luxurious stay in Santa Marta, 2km from the main stretch of Varadero. Pedrito's hostal was a beautiful and friendly accommodation offering lavish rooms and free lifts to any spot that takes your fancy along the beach.  This is all whilst still being situated in a local area with great, cheap places to eat with a Cuban vibe. The bus ride back was a mere 1 peso, 3 pence.

The palapa shade was much sought after under the continuous sunshine.

Havana

The capital, like all places in Cuba, offered a different take on the country again. Like, Santiago de Cuba the outskirts displayed rugged and weary architecture, whereas the old town was well maintained, preserving the grand structures of days gone by.  Similar to the rest of Cuba, odd streets are dotted with people simply selling a chisel or holepunch. 

We enjoyed the sites within walking distance; the plaza vieja (great place on the corner selling draught pints), plaza de la revolution and the museum (even if it was entirely biased). 

Plaza vieja.

Typical old town streets.

The most common types of classic cars that chugged around.

Centro Havana.

Vinales

Grateful to escape the bustle of Havana, we encountered the beautiful countryside in Vinales. The region is enclosed by mountains and farmland with colourful and quaint houses. Our casa, Juana y Jardin, was perfectly above the town. The roof terrace provided a wonderful view across the mountains and Juana offered delicious home cooked feasts. We were literally ecstatic to find a broader range of vegetables here, where before we were limited to tomatoes and cucumbers. Here we were treated to onions, peppers, and mameys (sweet fruit that looks like a sweet potato). Happy days!

In Vinales we also ventured out to a few viewpoints, all of which were worth the walks uphill! We also took a day to hop a fence in the general direction of the fields and mountains, to come across local friendly faces, muddy paths, farm animals and beautiful scenery throughout. After weaving further in than anticipated we decided to loop our way home through a cave we found that led to the opposite side of the mountain. At the exit there was a picturesque view of a plantation and fresh water lake. 

View from Hotel Jazmines into the valley.

Our walk out into the countryside.

Our casa's terrace, perfect breakfast and sunset spot.

Cuban cigar, surprisingly nice.

Lovely sunsets.

Very satisfied with journey through Cuba and we would highly recommend it, sooner rather than later before political changes occur. It is certainly possible on a budget and on the whole a hugely hospitable and happy country. 

Now to board another justifiably questionable russian aircraft, delayed by 8 hours, to Mexico...

Practical information

Accurate as of July 2013, in our experience:

£1 = 1.55 CUC = 37 pesos.

The airport is a 20 CUC taxi ride from Havana, no good public transport routes.

There is a 25 CUC departure tax per person, payable only in cash. And leave enough time as emmigration can take hours in a queue.

Casa particulares are the best kind of accommodation offering a comfortable homely stay and good value. Averaging around 20 CUC for a double room and 8 CUC for a big dinner.

The national money is essential for easy and best value street foods, fruit and veg. Can be exchanged at any cadeca for 1 CUC = 24 pesos.

American affiliated bank cards will not work in the cash machines.

if you have a mastercard then cash can be withdrawn over the counter, but you will need a passport.

US dollars incur an additional 10% tax upon conversion, compared to all other currencies.

Viazul is a very convenient and comfortable bus to travel to all destinations of interest. The website is good for prices and reliable timings but tickets must be booked in advance, in person at the station.

Purified water is not cheap. A filter would save a lot of money.

Enjoy having no internet.

Average cost for accommodation - 20 CUC, double room en-suite.

Complete budget example - £15 and up, per person, per day