Nicaragua

355 miles, 15 days.

Leon

After a testing journey from Comayagua across the border, we finally arrived in Leon. The trip started at 6am involving 6 chicken buses, grumpy immigration officers, our final bus breaking down, to then reach Leon at 9pm. We were pretty tired to say the least and not in a hurry to jump in another bus for a while. 

Fortunately, we stumbled upon a great place to stay that night and crash out. The next morning we encountered the lively city and it's markets, street sellers and cathedrals. It is a charming area and has numerous things to offer. One of which was being a mere 20 bus ride from the beaches. We hopped on one to find the beach to ourselves under the Nicaraguan sunshine. Due to the communtiy feel throughout central amrerica there was no need for a return bus. A friendly family passed us on the road and kindly took us back to Leon.

The heat here was bordering uncomfortable at times. In an effort to cool ourselves we would treat ourselves to a bowl of ice covered in caramel like condensed milk sold by sellers strolling about. Very refreshing.

Soft sands to ourselves. 

Again, being in a volcanic region, we decided to take advantage of the landscape and trek up one of the nearby volcanoes, Telica. Like in Xela, Quetzaltrekkers offered a great non profit trek up the volcano and certainly did not disappoint. It was not a breeze by any means carrying 20 kilos on your back for 26 kilometres...uphill. However we soon forgot our achey legs once reaching the active crater, firstly realising the sheer noise from the volcano...it resembled an aeroplane! Laying dangling over the edge we saw the glowing red lava down below, with the views from the top being beautiful. You could even see the other surrounding volcanoes in the distance. 

Sunrise view from above camp.

Peering into the noisy, sulphurous crater.

By late afternoon we set up camp just below the crater and made a campfire dinner after sunset. The group were a great mix of nationalities and we thoroughly enjoyed socialising with them all.

Our campsite below the crater edge.

Sunset looking out to the sea.

Before we toasted marshmallows for dessert, we climbed back up to the edge to get a view of the impressive lava during the night time. The combination of the active crater beneath a clear sky illuminated by the milky way is an experience that we will value forever. 

The glowing lava at night.

An early wake up at 5am enabled us to climb to the top and appreciate the stunning sunrise over Nicaragua and other volcanoes. We packed up camp and began our descent, passing through flowery farm land and steaming volcanic mud pools on route. We arrived back in Leon weary but on a high, extremely pleased with our achievement and happy to have had such a great experience. We will continue to recommend the non profit organisation, Quetzaltrekkers, for their excellent treks and guides.

Sunrise over the volcanic belt.

Granada

From Leon we got the bus to Granada, a smaller and more traditional looking town. The streets reminded us somewhat of the architectural styles of Antigua and San Cristobal. The cathedrals and main plaza, again, very impressive and complete with a huge market offering all sorts.  Our hostel was a luxury too, with a refreshing pool and turtles to entertain us.

Plaza preparing for Christmas.

Our new friends.

Whilst in town we met up with some friends and experienced a Niaraguan baseball game. Here we tried new foods and witnessed the atmosphere of enthusiasm that the locals created!

Baseball Nicaraguan style.

For a day trip out of town, we spent a day at Laguna de Apoyo. The lake is actually a huge volcano crater lake and surrounded by the most beautiful landscape. With the water clear, calm and warm we loved the day kayaking, swimming and picnicing on the surrene waterfront. We were situated on one of a mere couple of spots set up on the crater's edge and so it remained peaceful with no business of boats etc.

Laguna de Apoyo crater lake.

Ometepe Island

Our next stop offered a landscape almost too incredible to appear real. It was the kind of thing you hear about or see on television and never quite believe. The island, Ometepe, is situated in lake Nicaragua and has two huge volcanoes boldly positioned on either side.

Isla Ometepe with it's two volcanos in lake Nicaragua.

We loved the peaceful atmosphere and indulged in some delicious fish and BBQ chicken feasts. Still, all meals here are without doubt accompanied by gallo pinto (rice and beans) and friend plaintain banana. The sunsets on the waterfront were always a treat.

Perfect sunsets over the lake.

Five kilometres of sweaty walking took us to the viewpoint Punta Jesus Maria. It was a long spit of beach jutting out into the lake with an incredible view of the Concepcion volcano.

Punta Jesus Maria viewpoint with Concepcion behind.

El Ostional

To polish off Nicaragua with something memorable we travelled to a tiny fishing village near the border named El Ostional. With the one small guesthouse to offer (manta rayas), two mini shops in the village, one comedor to pre-order dinner at and with it's stunning beach... we were more than thrilled to have chosen to stay here. We had the whole golden cove to ourselves, the friendliest of people, tasty fish dinners and cheap beer. Perfect!

All this beautiful beach to ourselves!

A view all the way across to Costa Rica, steps from our room.

£2.50 for a fish dinner served on an authentic christmas plate.

By our second day here in our idea of paradise, we had completely fallen in love with the secluded little village. Only a couple of hours away from the party surf town of San Juan del Sur, we hope that this place remains unknown, hence unspoilt by tourism. For our third and final day we climbed over the rocks to find the next cove along called El Robles. It was, as anticipated, beautiful. Again, we found ourselves to be the only people there to enjoy the clear blue waters lapping up to the beach. It was on this beach that we got engaged! Extremely excited! Due to the limitation of buying a ring in such a remote area, a string was tied as a temporary ring. A very memorable place.

El Robles beach.

Practical Information

From our experience in November 2013.
£1 = 35 cordobas.

Border crossing details can be found in the Honduras tab.

There is a $12 entry fee for a tourist card.

A trek up Telica costs around $50, although with quetzaltrekkers half of this goes towards good, local causes.

Laguna de Apoyo is best visited through a hostel since there don't seem to be any public access areas to the water and public transport would be difficult.

Beer is cheap - 75p for a litre bottle in a bar.

Don't bother going to El Ostional, we don't like the idea of it becoming developed.

There is a $2 exit tax from Nicaragua.

Border crossing to Costa Rica - From San Juan direction take a bus to Rivas but hop off at the junction about 10km before. Flag any bus in the right direction and you will be at the border in less than an hour total. There is a $1 fee for the municipalidad officials, just a bloke and a desk taking from tourists. No fee to enter Costa Rica but onward travel confirmation is required. This must be from Costa Rica, so a boat or flight out of Panama is not good enough. The only option they accept is an international bus between capital cities or a flight. When there, buying a ticket from San Jose to Managua or Panama City is the only way to get your stamp. Hourly buses leave for San jose. For Monteverde, change in Canas for a bus to las Juntas, then Santa Elena. Do not go via Tilaran.

Best off making a fake flight ticket or using the other border at Los chiles where they do not enforce this rule since there is no cash machine or tica bus office conveniently opposite the border.

Average double room cost - just under $20 a night.

Complete budget example - £12 and up, per person, per day.