Argentina

2001 miles, 14 days.

Tilcara

So, we made it all the way to Argentina, the country of ham and cheese sandwiches, tango dancing, a strange accent and mammoth size steaks.  We instantly took advantage of the black market, exchanging our crisp dollar bills for Argentinian Pesos at the blue dollar rate.  Great start....even if we were profiting slightly out of their struggling economy.

Post border crossing we stopped in the desert landscape still resembling that of southern Bolivia. The town of Tilcara was a small community and was situated conveniently next to some ruins we took a walk to.  The simple town was a peaceful chill out spot with empanadas and tortillas to keep your belly happy whilst sat in the sunny plaza.

Humahuaca desert.

From Tilcara we took a short bus south to Purmamarca, a town famous for its 7 coloured mountain. We took the 3k walk around it in the sunshine before strolling the town.

Cerro de 7 colores.

Salta

After a long time in and out of the desert since the salt flats, we were happy to finally get the dust out of our noses in the city of Salta. We really loved the mix of lively atmosphere, great nightlife and tranquil green parks in the happening but relaxed city.  The city portrayed to us just how much more Argentina is developed compared to the rest of South America.  Everything here is extremely modern and with higher standards, transport included.

Resemblance to Spain.

Iguazu Falls

Speaking of transport, we definitely got more than a flavour of it.  Our travel to Iguazu totaled to over 26 hours. We never wanted to get on a bus again.  To add to our aggravation, buses are much more expensive than anywhere else on our travels, with no cheaper option available. The services, however, are consistently impressive with large reclining seats and pretty decent meals. In addition, wherever you catch a bus in Argentina, you will without doubt be given a delightfully repetitive cheese and ham sandwich as a snack.  This combination is reflected in all sandwich shops, supermarkets or even as a side to your main meal.  They simply love ham and cheese.

However.....Iguazu was, of course, entirely worth the brain numbing journey!  Iguazu falls was something out of this world.  To comprehend the volume of plummeting water is impossible and left us mesmorised at each and every angle we viewed it from.  The falls can be seen from various locations, from far away for the panoramic view to almost underneath it. We thoroughly enjoyed spending our day walking around the trails of the park, also spotting some great wildlife along our way through the jungle.

The Devils throat.

Brown water due to deforestation... 20 years ago it was clear.

Hiya!

Buenos Aires

The last bus of our trip....20 hours. Yes, we were given ham and cheese. Twice.  We arrived a little sleep deprived but excited to see the infamously exciting city of steak and tango. We spent our days simply wandering the impressive streets (dodging dog shit) filled with life, music and colour.  Again, we were enlightened as to just how developed Argentina is, with it feeling almost European with the limitless cafes and restaurants between the shopping malls and stunning architecture. As well as back to a world with smartphones and prams. We were also fortunate enough to couchsurf during our stay with a lovely host.  It really added to the experience of our time in Buenos Aires.

Old and arty San Telmo.

One evening we decided to attend a show called Fuerza Bruta, a type of experimental theatre with a LOT going on.  It remained entirely unpredictable and entertaining with its unbelievably original performance.  The Recoleta Cemetary is in the Recoleta district, the most upmarket neighbourhood of the city.  The cemetery therefore contained an unbelievable amount of grand tombs for important people of the area e.g. musicians, politicians, doctors.

A swimming pool above the audience.

Recoleta cemetary.

Buenos Aires was clearly very rich in artistic talents, and so we loved experiencing all the music, local art and tango dancing on show throughout the streets.  Plaza Dorrego was the best place to catch some real Tango whilst people sat for a drink.

Tango busking.

You cannot go to Buenos Aires and not eat the delicious steak on offer.  Its unmissable.  We first tried a traditional Parilla, which is an unlimited platter of various cuts of meat served to your table. Reluctantly, we eventually had to stop asking for more....we could not fit any more in!

To celebrate our final night in South America we each got a sirloin steak of 16oz. Massive. This was suitably complimented by the typical red wine enjoyed by Argentinians, Malbec. Without doubt, this was the best steak of our lives, and provided a perfect end to our trip through Central and South America.

Final night.

Practical Information

Accurate as of May 2014.
£1 = $1.60. $1 = 10.5 pesos black market / 8 pesos normal.

Bring 100 dollar bills to exchange with blokes on the street at a rate that is around 30% better than the official.

The peso exchange rate may be even better on the Bolivian side of the border.

Plataforma10 gives accurate information on bus times and prices. Although going to the office can often get discounts or upgrades. For example buying 2 tickets or paying by cash got us hundreds off.

Purmamarca is 30 minutes and 6 pesos from Tilcara.

Salta to Iguazu can be done with a change in Resistencia or Corrientes. About 24 hours total.

Iguazu is 170 pesos entry and 80 pesos for a return bus.

A big steak and bottle of wine in a fancy restaurant will be around 170 pesos (£10).

There is a public bus to the Ezieza airport in Buenos Aires. 9 pesos each - all paid in coins and 2's not accepted, so save the rare coins. Leaves from Plaza de mayo and stops down Rivadavia Av. Takes 2 hours. But a taxi is 280 pesos.

Example complete budget - £15 and up, per person, per day.